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The Lessons in Hospitality

Author: Steve

When we left for this trip we knew we would need to work hard at teaching the kids educational facts in each country throughout the year.  It has not been easy for any of us to try and absorb each historical fact (there’s just so much intriguing information out there) especially when you’re traveling each week to a new location.  This blog is helping us reign in our thoughts with what we see and learn each day.  So no complaints, we will stay the course and continue to take in as much information as we can.  However, one powerful lesson we did not count on hitting us so impressively were our lessons in hospitality.

The one area we know for sure we and our kids have already been given a huge lesson in is hospitality.  From our first day in Gelsenkirchen, Germany with Annetta and Werner and how they picked us up from the airport, gave us great meals, let us stay in their lovely home and showed us their region and their lives; our time there was too short with these great people. We never met them before this trip. In Greece our warm Greek family in Paro’s at Hotel Afrodite taught us that it’s about enjoying each other and being happy and not always making that extra buck.  Now to Croatia, our final stay on this leg in Europe, the hospitality we were given was unbelievable.  We will never forget the warm family service we were given at the beautiful Hotel Magdalena in Krapinske Toplice and would stay there again in a heartbeat.  Zlatko and Gorinka our hosts from the same village, were such fun people and allowed us to truly be a part of their family.  From the baptism and how they sat all the Americans in the front row of the church (and they sat behind us), to the huge gift baskets they gave us that were waiting in our hotel room when we arrived, to letting us join them in Brela on their family vacation, and their motto of “when in Croatia you will never be hungry or thirsty” (and we weren’t).  I personally loved my long talks with Zlatko, we talked about everything from Croatian history, how he grew up in former times, our marriages, our kids etc.  I will always cherish my time with him.  I cannot say enough on how humbling it is to have been given such hospitality during the last 2 months.

Annetta and Keegan going at it - they could have played all day

Saying goodbye to our friends at Hotel Magdalena: Marijana and Dubravka (the owner)

Gorinka, Zlatko and Daniel; it doesn't get much better than that

As I sit in our hotel in Johannesburg, South Africa and write this, I am glad to say this lesson in hospitality has put tears in my eyes and I know I can and want to do a better job of giving hospitality at the level that has been given to me and my family.  My kids have seen first hand “the giving” not for any other reason than love – no matter what country you are from, what language you speak, what religion you practice or the color of your skin…we all have more love to give.

 
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Posted by on August 6, 2011 in Croatia

 

Zagreb, Croatia

Author: Steve

We have a good friend from our hometown that was born in Croatia and her parents still live there.  We also met up with another family on their summer vacation in the village where Toni is from. We were so fortunate to be invited to visit and as Keegan wrote about in his blog we were invited to the wonderful baptism of their very cute daughter, Layla.

We started the weekend by taking a short trip up to the family’s wine vineyard.  Many family’s have small wine vineyards in this village that they work as a hobby. This is a beautiful piece of land that also has a small house with an outhouse, sort of a studio apartment above the wine cellar where the barrels are kept. The views were incredible from all angles.  After a very nice evening drinking some wonderful homegrown white wine a few of us adults went to the village festival (everything is walking distance as Keegan mentioned).  We stayed out probably (ok not probably) a little later than we should have but we had a wonderful time in the big tent listening to live Croatian music and dancing the night away.  It was a fun night with a lot of laughs and catching up with friends.

The view over looking the valley from the wine house in Krapinske Toplice

Amy and Kenda checking out the wine cellar

Zlatko and Gorinka's vineyard

Amy, Kenda and Toni enjoying the wine and the laughs

The Christening was approved by a Christian, a Hindu and a Jew - I think that means good luck for Layla!

The next day our friend’s father, Zlatko, gave the two American families a wonderful tour of the sites in Croatia’s capital; Zagreb.  We visited the church of Saint Mark’s and Trg Bana Jelacica, Zagreb’s main square, just to mention a couple.  We also visited the Trakoscan Castle in northern Croatia.  Zlatko was able to rent a large van from a friend that made it so convenient to have one vehicle for all of us. We had incredible hosts.

In front of the church of Saint Mark's

Coleman, Keegan, Kendal and Brooke enjoying the city view of Zagreb

Atop the Trakoscan Castle.

Zagreb is a wonderful city with not only old, rich history but recent history as well.  The entire country has a population of about 4.5 million.  It is, at this point, still not a member of the EU but it is said to be close to becoming a member country.  Some would love for it to happen sooner than later because it would open the doors to new opportunities and growth however many would rather it not happen for those same reasons.

The recent war in this area is complicated to understand because it has so many factors spanning over such a long period of time.  But the more I read and talk with the locals I realize this was a war in the making that was realized over many centuries of turmoil, with a strong springboard from World War I and II during the reign of the Kingdom of Yugoslavia.  After the death of Josip Broz “Tito” (Yugoslavia’s charismatic yet controversial leader) in 1980, economic, political, and religious difficulties started to mount and the federal government began to crumble during this decade. During this time the Kosovo War Crisis occurred as well as the rise of Slobodan Milosevic.  So the area was unsettled all around.  On Easter Sunday, March 31, 1991 the first fatal clashes occurred in the beautiful Plitvice Lakes National Park (we took a day trip and hiked this incredible park-we would recommend this visit) between Croatian and Serbian forces.

Plitvice Lakes National Park

Plitvice Lakes National Park - waterfalls were endless and everywhere

Plitvice Lakes National Park - the water was crystal clear aqua

Plitvice Lakes National Park - this was a slightly overcast day which made it a great day for hiking

And then again during the same year, 1991, the Battle of Vukar took place, which lasted from the middle of August to November 16.  At least 3,000 people were killed and this battle completely destroyed the city of Vukar (the largest complete city destruction since WWII).  On October 1, 1991, the walled-city of Dubrovnik was attacked by the Yugoslav People’s Army, led by Slobodan Milosevic, he declared that Dubrovnik would not be permitted to stay a part of Croatia because it was historically a part of Montenegro.  The casualties of this 7-month conflict were 166 people.  In May 1992, the Croatian Army lifted the siege and liberated Dubrovnik (we also took a day trip to see this amazing city-we would recommend this visit as well).

Dubrovnik - we walked the perimeter of the wall with an audio tour, it was about a 2K walk

The walled city of Dubrovnik - we could have definatly spent more time here

Conflicts continued on a small scale and sporadically in Croatia until 1995.

On August 4, 1995, the Croatian Armed Forces in conjunction with the Army of the Republic of Bosnia and Herzegovina effectively carried out a large-scale military operation known as “Operation Storm”.  They had received strategic instruction from the US based firm, Military Professional Resources Inc. (MPRI), this engagement was approved by the US Government. This conflict lasted about 4 days with complete victory for the Croatian forces.

The history of this country is so vast and still so fresh that I can’t help but wonder if the younger generations, from all sides, are strong enough to put these differences aside and move forward toward a more peaceful future.

 
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Posted by on August 6, 2011 in Croatia

 

Brela and Makarska, Croatia

Author: Kendal

While in Croatia we were able to do a mini vacation with our friends to a beach town called Brela.  Brela is a beautiful beach on the coast of Croatia with mountains as a backdrop.  While you swim you look up and see the mountains that often times have clouds that seem to be just sitting on them.  When you look out you see the many small islands off the Dalmatian Coast of Croatia.

The fam on the beach in Brela, Croatia

We started off the day eating in the hotel breakfast area, and playing with Daniel. After the scrumptious breakfast, we all (10 of us including kids) went back to our rooms and got ready for a quick swim in the Adriatic Sea. Only Keegan, Zlatko, and I went swimming, it was really fun once you got used to the cool temperature. The first day it took me forever to get in but by the time we left I would just jump right in.  Sadly, while we were in the water Keegan and I saw a dead bird’s whole body faced down floating! Very sad/creepy. After showering we got dressed and took the acoommm (a car or van in Daniel’s 2 year old language-he’s very cute) to visit one of Gorinka’s friend’s old house in the city of Makarska.  It was close to the top of a mountain and when you looked up into the mountains you saw the really fluffy airy clouds resting there.  This was a very old house that the man and his wife (who had been born there) had done a lot of improvements on, he was very proud and the house was very cool with an awesome view of the sea and the mountains.  They have tons of olive trees on their property and when they harvest them they take them to an olive oil factory in town and have extra virgin olive oil made.  Toni, Mom, and I thought that at any moment the ‘Cullens’ (from the Twilight series) could come flying down running at lightning speed ;).  We then took the big van (acoommm) to the beach of Makarska. The beach was so much more crowded than the one in Brela (our beach). The families split up and explored on our own.  Our family went and had a quick snack and walked around the city, which is a major tourist site. We then met back up with our friends, who had somehow (beyond me) gotten a spot on the busy beach. Keegan went on this fun plaything shown in the pictures below. You paid a fee and were able to climb and jump on the cool stuff in the water.  He jumped on this mat thing, they call it the blob and moved to the end of it and then another boy that he had been talking to (good-looking by the way ;)) jumped on the other end and Keegan went flying!!! He went at LEAST 15-20ft in the air! My stomach went to my throat as I watched him fly through the air. “SH*#*T!!!!!!!!” screamed my very scared mother. People on the beach clapped and cheered.   He was up immediately and laughed it off, but then he didn’t eat that much later . . .  After that very exciting/scary experience we all headed to the acoommm to put our beach stuff back, we then walked to Gorinka’s friends other house for some dinner. When we arrived we were told that we were going to have a traditional Dalmation prepared dinner. So we had appetizers, fish soup, fish (the main dish) they brought out two huge trays of fish — sardines and some other fish they had made, various side dishes and then dessert. It was a very tasty meal!  Our host was a very kind older man and his wife.  The wife made the food and the man made the ladies jewelry as a gift to take with us.  They were necklaces and bracelets made of shells.  After a great evening we said our goodbyes, and headed to the acoommm. When we got back my family stayed in and watched some TV (English with Croatian subtitles) and then very quickly went ‘nitey nite after a long great day.

At the mountain house with the clouds riding up above.

The mountain house had a great deck with grape vines for shade. Bronco (the older gentleman in the back with Gorinka) was our host.

Me, Mom, Toni and Gorinka on one of the decks in the mountain house with the Adriatic Sea and the Brac and Hvar Islands in the background.

Keegan getting ready to reach his spot for his flight.

The busy beach in Makarska - they all got a chance to see Keegan fly!

Our great Dalmation dinner in Makarska

After dinner Bronco gave all the women jewelry he had made.

A couple of side notes on Croatia – I loved being with people we knew.  We went to a restaurant on a mountain (everywhere is on a mountain).   Just outside the door were animals and we fed them some bread (shhhhhhhh….). There was also a playground that we could play on! But it was wet so Keegan dried them off with his butt first ;). Then all four of us (Keegan, Brooke, Coleman, and I) decided to run around the restaurant for some exercise. We all did about 10 times around (estimate) before we had to leave.

Playing with the goats on the mountain restaurant

While in Brela Toni told us how she went there growing up and how she would jump off the rocks.  Well one day she took us to the rocks. Let’s just say that the rocks were much higher than we had anticipated. Toni went first and did a ‘shallow’ dive, HEADFIRST! Very nerve-racking. She is so much fun and she’s crazy brave too. Then it was my turn so I climbed up but it’s much scarier on top than on the bottom. So I waited as some other kids came on a paddle boat, they got very close and if I had jumped I would have landed on them. So this one guy went and then Toni told them to hold off cause my dad and I still had to go. So Dad went first (his friend Dr. Rick gave him a 3 for technique but a 9 for facial expression), and then me, my stomach raced to my mouth the minute I jumped! It was very fun to do it but I’m not going to do that again (maybe).

Keegan, Toni and me in the Adriatic Sea

Toni's brave shallow dive!

My awesome jump!

All and all I think Croatia is a pretty great country to visit but being there with our friends made it a really awesome time!

 
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Posted by on August 3, 2011 in Croatia

 

A Baptism in Krapinske Toplice, Croatia

Author: Keegan

On Sunday we woke up and went to a baptism for our friend’s baby named Layla.  She is really cute.  The baptism was at a cute little church in their hometown Krapinske Toplice, Croatia.   After the baptism there was a huge party at the Grandparents house, which was in the same town (you walk everywhere). There were at least 60 -70 people there, they used all floors of the house (there were 3 floors)!!  A live group of musicians played music.  People danced, even all of us Americans, we were yelling opah!!  The party lasted all day and into the night.  There was a good amount of Croatian kids at the party and because our friends live in the U.S. there were English-speaking kids there too.  It was a blast!  Then around 4:00 we went back to the hotel and went to the spa on the top floor there was free tea and there were two saunas; a bio sauna and an infrared sauna so after we went in the big hot tub we went in the sauna to dry off.  Friends of the people who had the party own the hotel.  It is known for their therapeutic waters and services.  We were very refreshed! Then we went back to our apartment and changed for round two.  We walked back to the party around 7:00, the musicians were still playing and everything was the same as when we left.  We met this girl named Marta who was from England and speaks English and Croatian.  She was really funny. When it got dark Kendal, Marta, Brooke, Coleman, and me went on the streets and played manhunt!  We got really competitive and the teams were Coleman and I against the girls.  Coleman and I won most of the time.  Then it was time to leave around 10:00!  So then we went to bed and replayed the day in our heads.

                        THE END THE END THE END THE END!!

After mass in the cute church

The live band went all day and all night!

Me and my friends

In the beautiful Villa Magdalena hotel spa overlooking the village

The band moved inside and kept on playing!

The happy family - I told you she was cute!

This is just one table of deserts, my favorite table!

Dad dancing with Gorinka, our awesome hostess!!

 
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Posted by on July 31, 2011 in Croatia

 

The Night Train

Author: Amy

While planning our route we knew ahead of time that we would be going to Croatia to visit friends that live there and also we were lucky enough to be meeting a couple of families from our town in the states that would be there as well.  Our flight into Germany helped set the stage for our route and of course to hit Greece.

ANYWAY to my story . . . we took the night train from Venice to Zagreb.  They seemed relatively close on the map.  The original thought was to take a high-speed ferry from Italy to Croatia – however, there were issues with that plan.  One was timing, the ferry didn’t run every day and we needed to get out of Schengen* countries so we could come back in for the holidays.  Another was we needed to rent a car for transportation in Croatia and if we rented in the port town that the ferries arrived we would also need to return it there (the option to pick up in a small town and return at the airport in Zagreb was not available) and we were eventually flying out of Zagreb.  SOOOO we took the overnight train – very reasonably priced, we saved a night hotel stay, we had been on many trains in Germany and Austria, they were nice enough, just get a private room and we’ll all sleep.  This train was like no other that we have seen.  It was a Trenitalia (Italy train company), the windows were open, the beds were yuck (full of animal hair), the pillows you dare not look at in the light and you could hear the screech of the train that went up your spine every time it stopped.  While riding I felt like we were in midair from time to time – down hill.  I could never have imagined it would be this way.  Luckily the kids were extremely tired.  We flew in from Greece that morning and waited the day out to get on the train in the evening.  They slept through most of it.  I prayed through all of it.  We had two passport stops and checks along the way.  Border patrol would come and pound on the door with a huge flashlight and heavy accent.  “Border patrol, prepare passport”, they would pound on each door and repeat “Border patrol, prepare passport” many rooms had young 20ish people that don’t wake very quickly so we heard that phrase a lot.  It was a 7-hour train ride that will remain in my mind forever.  The best part was getting off at 4:20am and having a ride waiting for us to take us to the apartment so we could go straight to sleep – which we all did.  The payoff in having transportation waiting after train and flights is the best travel lesson learned.  As the commercial says . . . “priceless”.

"Border patrol, prepare passports!!"

*Schengen Agreement – an agreement between 25 specific European countries that have met requirements and have signed the agreement to remove controls at their borders so that, for example, people can move freely from one country to another without needing to show their passports (similar to one state to another in the US).  The rule for us as Americans is we can stay in Schengen territory for 90 of 180 days then we must be out for 90 days.

 
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Posted by on July 25, 2011 in Italy

 

Greece

Author: Steve

Greece for some reason wasn’t high on the list to visit for Amy or me. It wasn’t that we were against it but we really were not pushing for it either. Amy felt it would be a lot of work (and cost) – going island to island, logistically figuring out flights and ferries.  Kendal on the other hand (as you read in her blog) really wanted to visit Greece and she made it well-known when we first started planning our adventure a couple of years ago.

When Amy looked into Greece she searched in Santorini and Mykonos (two of the more popular islands that most have heard of). We knew it would be peak season and very busy (which is not what we were looking for) so we did some more research and ended up getting a tip from the parents of Kendal’s soccer friend that Paros was very nice (thank you Tiffany’s parents).  We chose to just visit one island and hoped to get a feel of Greece that way.  Slow travel.

Some highlights I hope never to forget:

Paros – Paros is only 64 square miles with the longest beach length of 10 miles. It is centrally located in the Aegean Sea. We also chose to stay in one of the smallest villages on Paros being Aliki Beach; which is on the southern edge of the island. Some of this was research and some luck that we ended up in a great location and in a great hotel.  Aliki is a storybook, Greek fishing village and is an ideal get away for families.

Hotel Afrodite – We stayed at The Hotel Afrodite as Kendal mentioned in her blog. This is a 30-year old family owned and run business that takes you in with such warmth and sincerity. For these hard working people their only desire is that you have a great time and have everything that you need to be happy. From the staffers that warmly pinched Keegan’s cheeks and rubbed his hair to the other staffers that loved Kendal’s self designed manicure, they were all so accommodating and happy. The hotel was always spotlessly clean and very reasonably priced. We all felt so incredibly comfortable walking around this authentic Greek and very quaint hotel it was sad to have to say goodbye. I’ll never forget the site of the staff that was there when we left, as they ran out of the kitchen to hug us goodbye.

Playing cards in the Hotel Afrodite Garden

Saying goodbye to our family at Afrodite Hotel

If you are looking for a small, quite, slow-paced, beautiful, safe, family friendly vacation in Greece – we recommend Aliki Beach on the Island of Paros at Hotel Afrodite (they also have a few incredible villas with pools looking onto the Aegean Sea).

Late Nights – We tried to stay up a little later each night to catch dinner at the “proper” dinner eating time but it still never seemed late enough. There was an authentic Greek wedding going on in the village on Saturday night and the “Mama” of the hotel told us we should walk by and check out the music and festivities. We were so excited. Well, we had dinner on the beach at 9pm, stayed up late (so we thought) to check things out but people were still rolling in the wedding at 10pm just to sit down for dinner. We passed “Mama” on the street just walking in as well.  We stopped so the kids could have an ice cream and Amy and I decided, since we are in Greece, we should share a glass of authentic ouzo! Doubt if we’ll ever do that again, ouch!!  Any way as we look in the street, which is right in front of the beach, we see Arsenis (he’s a son in the hotel family business, and manages things. Arsenis also has a little celebrity status going on, everybody seems to know and like him). He stopped to say hi to us before he headed over to the wedding, it was 11:30pm.  We wish we would have had more time to sit and talk with Arsenis he is the nicest guy that we really enjoyed talking to about, well, everything – hopefully one day we will have another chance.  We were dragging from being in the sun all day driving the ATV’s and goofing around on the beach so we headed back. As we looked around, the streets were filled with families, kids of all ages and just plain old folk having fun, it was a beautiful site.  By the way, at breakfast the next morning guess who drove up in her wedding outfit at 9:00am…yep, Mama. She laughed as she came in the garden to say hi to us – she said she was on her way to bed but wanted to give the kids her wedding table gift, candied almonds wrapped in lace. What a sweet Greek women!

 

Having a fun conversation with our friend Arsenis

Ecosystem in the Aegean Sea – We decided to take a 4-hour snorkeling tour in Aliki and were happily surprised when our guide and owner of the facility came out with a book before we put our wetsuits on and spent 45-minutes talking to us about; 1) what exactly we would be looking for and; 2) engaged us in a discussion of the current activities of the specific marine life in Paros. This area is still one of the most uninterrupted ecosystems in the world. One of the reasons we see the varying colors of blues and greens off of the beach is because is contains such a strong and healthy plant life below.  Posidonia is a sea plant that provides vast amounts of oxygen (you can kind of think of it as a rainforest under water – and it needs to be preserved).  It’s prohibited for fisherman to fish within 1.5 km from shore and they should only use specific approved methods when they do fish. Unfortunately that’s not always the case and when they trawl they interrupt the posidonia and the inhabitants within the posidonia.  As the discussions continued I found how large spread the ripple effects are from the current economic state of Greece.  The snorkeling was surreal and at one point we could not see a single boat as far as our eyes could reach. We docked in a cavern that once was encompassed within a cave but the ceiling center had collapsed which allowed us to examine, in crystal clear water, what survives in sunlight and what survives in darkness. We learned how and where photosynthesis occurs as well as the different types of sponges and how they survive. We had some great conversations with Sara and are so happy we chose to take a chance that maybe we’d learn something – we definitely did.

Heading out for our snorkeling tour

Economy of Greece – I started reading a little more heavily about the Euro financial situation about 1.5 years ago when the many articles regarding the unflattering term of PIGS (Portugal, Ireland, Greece and Spain) were surfacing heavy.  I never could have imagined we would be in Europe when this was hitting the fan not to mention the increased growth of the problem within not just the EU but also the possible worldwide ramifications. While we were in Aliki we received an email from the taxi service (that Amy had very smartly booked on-line through a UK website) that the taxi drivers had went on strike but not to worry they would still be at the port waiting for us.  We were lucky to have an unmarked ride waiting for us. Taxi drivers are upset for a number of reasons but the main one is that they paid $80,000 euro (some reports as high as $150,000 euro) for a taxi license but the government believes that the current taxi drivers control the market and have monopolized this sector.  So their plan to resolve that is to allow competition in at an extreme advantage with an “ease to market” strategy by now only charging $3,000 euro for the same license and liberalizing their sector.  The taxi’s lined up in front of ports and airports disrupting one of the countries strongest revenue sources, tourism, which accounts for 16% of the country’s total economic output.  The night before we left they had extended their current 48-hour strike for another 48 hours.  With taxi’s not in operation the public transportation system was much heavier than usual so it made it tough for us to get around. We had scheduled a tour guide for 5 hours (to get the most education as we could out of the short time we were there) to show us the main sites. He called us the night before and sadly informed us that he would need to cancel because he drives a taxi and if he was caught with us he would most likely get in a lot of trouble. We ended up finding our own way to the Acropolis by foot but unfortunately missed some of the other sites we had planned on seeing as well as the education we were hoping to experience.  The taxi’s are just one area of this very huge problem.  One of the primary protest areas was right by our hotel, we did see protest activity but what we saw was all non-violent and groups carrying signs .  The government is not just targeting the taxi sector but is focusing on reforming 135 professions to help reduce their huge debt.

Parthenon - a temple on the Athenian Acropolis dedicated to the Greek goddess Athena

The unfortunate thing is this recent taxi strike effects everyone even an establishment like Hotel Afrodite.  Because the taxi’s established a blockade on the port and the airport, tourists are having a hard time getting to their hotels.  So if a tourist had a 5 night stay but now they need to reduce or cancel, this greatly effects an already struggling economic sector not to mention all the critical ancillary costs to bars, restaurants on the beaches, grocery stores, snorkeling, wind surfing, etc. that all get effected.  When you are in this scenario it’s hard to see that you are hurting yourself but you believe you have no other choice. Unfortunately the result is things continue to get worse.  Even the ecosystem is effected, for example, with the lack of tourist to these hotels and restaurants the fishermen sell less so they need to cut fuel costs and do what ever they need to to fish as close as they can to shore (by trawling and disturbing the ecosystem) in what ever way they can so they can feed their families.  These are basic consequences but powerful ones. Now throw Italy, France, Germany, the financial markets, the banks, what effects this may have on the Middle East situation, etc. When you really sit back and try to list the ripple effects this has within our world it can be taunting.  I am anxious to see how things play out in Thursdays summit meeting.

 
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Posted by on July 24, 2011 in Greece

 

ATV’s in Paros

Author: Keegan

So hello again it’s a me a Mario, just kidding its me Keegan and today we tried to go to a yoga studio thingy. We walked for a while and kind of got lost. So we all yelled at each other saying “we were suppose to go that way” or “WE ARE NOT LOST” (Dad yelled that, sorry Dad for putting that in).  So we finally found it and it was really small and we didn’t see anyone so we went back to the beach to make a plan. When we got there (it took a while after we got lost) we said well let’s go see if we can go on a snorkeling tour but they said it was too windy.  We couldn’t do it today but they said we could do it Sunday so we made reservations.  Then we went back to the beach and said, “lets just have another beach day” (such hard decisions) and we decided that Kendal and I were going to stay at the beach while the parents went to get all the toys, snorkel and sun-tan lotion (we were already wearing our swim suits).   I went in the ocean while Kendal did whatever a Kendal does. About 30 minutes later only Dad comes back jogging and says, “we got the ATVs for today not tomorrow” (we were suppose to get them on Friday).  So (YIPPEE!!) we got the ATVs and we got gas for them both because one was really low.  We cruised around the island and we made a stop to change our high-speed ferry reservation out of the island to Monday because we were actually staying till Monday not Sunday.  While we were there, in a town called Parikia, we had lunch.  After lunch we rode for about 1 hour until we saw a cute town and tried to find a pool.  We finally found a pool/bar/hotel that was a resort, it was empty, no one in the pool and no one in the hotel lobby but it was open…. Strange, so we asked if we could use their pool.  We were hot from driving around the island.  It’s cool because you can drive the ATVs on the regular roads on the island.  The hotel people were nice and said we could use the pool so my mom and dad got ice-cappuccino’s and Kendal and I got water and we went swimming for about an hour with no charge whatsoever (except the drinks)!!!  After that we went back on the ATVs and cruised around the island some more, then we saw another cute village and we went down there. As we walked on the rocks we saw a couple different type of fish. Soon after that we got back on the ATVs and went back to Aliki to our hotel where we had a quick snack and then went to sleep…ZZZZ…zzzzz…ZZZZZ…zzzzz…

Yes, the story continues, we had the ATVs for 24 hours so early the next morning we started up the ATVs and went to a little island off of Paros called Antiparos.  It was a great morning, we had to take a ferry over so we drove the ATVs right onto the ferry and took a 7-minute ride.  Breakfast was delicious.  My parents let Kendal and I drive the ATVs for a little bit. It was a RUSH!! You could feel the power in your grip it was like you could do anything you wanted to do!  I wish we could have had them the whole week!

Kendal downloaded the Harry Potter Book 7 Part 1 of 2 movie so we could refresh our memories before we see the new one. After her download, which took about 3 hours (during which we all just chilled out), we went down to the beach for a late dinner.  Wow! What a long, fun two days!

THE END

Beautiful Church in the Village of Aliki

We couldn't find mules but these bad boys suited us fine

Our awesome break from the ATV's in our private resort

On the ferry headed to Antiparos

I was ready to ride at all times!

Panagia Ekatontapiliani - also known as the Church of 100 Doors is in Parikia and dates back to 326AD (from my dad)

Oh how I Iove the feel of the open road!

 
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Posted by on July 19, 2011 in Greece

 

Paros, Greece

Author: Kendal

I have been dying to go to Greece. Ever since I first saw The Sisterhood of the Traveling Pants and Mamma Mia I have been longing to see it. I have sung the songs to Mamma Mia at least 400 times. We went to our “little island” (a phrase said in Mamma Mia) on a high-speed ferry; it took 3½ hours. We were able to get a glimpse of the other islands and what we should expect on our ride out to our destination: the island of Paros. The ferry ride went very quickly, it was incredible to be on the sea blue water with a clear blue sky.  The day just kept getting better and better.  Paros seems not that busy which I like and seems to consist of mainly Greeks! A person holding a sign up with our hotel name, Hotel Afrodite, picked us up at the port. His name is Arsenis and he is super nice and he drove us to our hotel. We were then taken to heaven, he took us in our hotel and I fell madly in love with it! It consisted of everything I had wanted from Greece.

We started our first full day in Greece by eating in our amazingly awesome Hotel Afrodite! The breakfast was delightful. It has a really nice staff, and the place is beautiful, it’s like it was cut out of a movie and plopped down right by the beach. It has a little garden in the back where you can buy a drink and relax while reading or playing cards with the family. It’s about a 3-minute walk from the front steps to the beach, about 1 block. After breakfast we went and changed into our swimsuits and headed out for a walk. We walked along the beach and past the shops. Then Dad and I went and climbed out on these huge rocks into the sea. The wind was blowing like crazy and almost pushed us over a couple of times (almost). We walked to another beach and found many different sea urchins within the rocks; we also went in the water a little. After that we walked to the grocery store and bought a couple of things we were in need of.  Later we walked back to the hotel, where Mom and I went on the Internet and the boys played cards in the garden out back. When we were done with that, we got ready for dinner. We headed toward the beach and ate at the cutest restaurant right on the water, the water is crystal clear and you can see the sea urchins from our table. It was about 8pm; it seems everyone eats later here. We had fresh calamari, some grilled feta and bread (very tasty), fresh caught Sea Bream fish (with some yummy sauce), and then some watermelon for dessert. Afterwards we walked back to the greekest hotel for a good night’s rest. Welcome to Greece!  We love it here!!

I love our room - when we walked in there was candy on the bed, drinks for me and Keegan and Mom and Dad got a bottle of wine, all gifts from the Hotel.

That's me standing in front of Hotel Afrodite.

Aliki Beach in Paros, Greece

Aliki Beach - that's Keegan and me swimming.

We got to watch the US Women's Soccer Team beat France in a restaurant on the beach before dinner one night.

Fresh calamari, yummy!

Sea Bream - very tasty!

It was a great night!

 
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Posted by on July 17, 2011 in Greece

 

Venezia, Italia

Author: Amy and Steve

We took a train from Salzburg, Austria to Venezia (Venice), Italy to catch a flight to Greece.  The train ride was quite an adventure.  We ended up spending most of our time in the dining car.  We weren’t able to figure out how to reserve seats online so we didn’t – big mistake.  (We are however finding good family train deals and that it’s much less expensive to buy our tickets in Europe than doing the whole Euro-Pass deal like we thought of doing back in the US). The train was overloaded with people.  Sooooo our savings on reserved seats was spent on a delicious – very slowly eaten meal in the dining car.  We eventually were able to move to a “Harry Potter” cabin with 6 seats and a door.  We knew where to get off because it specifically stated it on the ticket and because we only wanted one connection (instead of 3 or 4 like some of the other options) it was a pretty clear ticket. When it was time to get off at our stop — Mestre Venezia, we got the backpacks on (which is work in itself) and headed to the door, as did many other travelers. The train stopped but the doors wouldn’t open – people were somewhat in a panic because eventually the train was going to start heading out at any moment. Well it did head out and no one was able to get off. We weren’t too upset because we knew we could get off for sure at the next stop which was Venice – main. We were just frustrated from a long days travel and were thinking – what the heck?! Our waitress walked by while we were waiting for our next stop and we asked her why the doors wouldn’t open. She explained that Mestre is simply a stop for train staff and not passengers – so sorry. Huh? But check out our tickets….oh well.  We were able to catch a different train quickly backtracking to the stop we needed.

Our flight to Greece was scheduled for a couple days later so even though we never planned on visiting Venezia, we were there already so we ended up taking a full day in on the Island.

About 5 years ago we went to Rome and down the Amalfi coast with the kids on an awesome land tour (where we were taken care of from the time we woke up till the time we went to bed) and we fell in love with Italy; the food, smells, views, wine, etc., what’s not to love? However, this trip we need to take care of ourselves and it makes for a different type of travel.  So instead of staying at a fancy hotel like we did on the tour years ago we stayed in a “modest” hotel in Venezia Mestre which is not on the island but much less expensive (it had a private bathroom so we can’t complain).  We heard a number of times how Venezia was dirty and expensive.  After our 20-minute bus ride from our hotel we were pleasantly surprised how clean and very “Italy” it was as we remembered back at our trip some years ago.  Expense wise let’s just say one coke (no refills) was 5.50 Euro! Sheesh!!!

Venezia is built on a lagoon and encompasses 118 islands, back in 2006 it was ranked 28th of the most visited cities in the world. Its vast amount of art is one of the leading factors of this ranking as well as being known as one of the most romantic cities in the world.

We arrived into the main station at about 11 am (it was a Sunday), it was very calm and stores and restaurants were just beginning to open. After a few hours it got very busy, definitely a tourist haven and coming from a tourist town we understand peak season. Okay so we’ve seen first hand that it is in fact a clean and picturesque destination, now on the expense.  Long story short, it became very clear very fast that this location was too expensive for our tastes. One day was (as beautiful as it is) good enough for us. We love Italy and can’t wait to go back but we agree when we do go back we’ll want to stay in the more rustic, non-tourist location.

A day in Venezia

Venezia, Italia

One of the canals in Venezia

Keegan enjoying the views

The Basilica di San Marcos which has been the city’s cathedral since 1807 is in the background

Keegan - Italian style!!

 
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Posted by on July 15, 2011 in Italy

 

Salzburg, Austria – Fraulein Maria

Author: Amy

While in Austria we stayed in the town of Salzburg.  We decided not to rent a car and knew we probably could venture out to the beautiful ski towns with the bus or train.  While I was researching where to stay there were many options in the ski towns but it seemed that we’d have to rent a car.  I spent many hours deliberating because we love cool summer weather, being from a warm climate, but I didn’t want to be stranded out on some deserted mountain – I just didn’t have input from anyone that had spent time in the summer there.  Our apartment was “fine”.  We were overpromised and under delivered a bit, but such is life.  We were just across the street from the beautiful Mirabell gardens and were lucky to spend a lot of time there – it had a great park for the kids and random school chorus/bands would play each day.  It was fun to see their enthusiasm and talent.  One day we took the “Fraulein Maria, Sound of Music Bike tour”.  We saw all the sights from the movie; the Von Trapp home (two were used for the movie – we saw them both); the famous Gazebo (I am sixteen, going on seventeen  . . .); and the Abby.  Many of the scenes were shot in the Mirabell Park that we were staying near.  It was a fabulous day – a 4-hour bike tour.  It also included most of the sights of Salzburg – Mozart’s home and the Salzburg castle.  Salzburg is set upon the river Salzach, which makes it a very pretty city. Another day we took the local bus out to a ski village called “Jenner” and took a gondola up to the very top (which is in the Berchtesgaden National Park).  The view was breathtaking.  We enjoyed a light lunch and hiked down to the midpoint gondola, a 1.5 hour hike straight downhill.  The path was gravel and you really had to concentrate on not slipping.  Along the path we encountered some gorgeous cows with bells around their necks.  It just seemed so cute and rustic, until I got closer and saw how massive these animals were and my non-animal instinct/fear overtook me.  Good thing Kendal stayed calm.  We enjoyed our time in Salzburg and a week was long enough to see what we wanted to see.

Looks Like a pretzel but it's really a donut

View of the Salzburg Castle

Great bike tour

Is Fräulein Marie home?

Von Trapp home

I am 16 going on 17...

A view from Berchtesgaden National Park

Keegan took this shot and kept saying, "Dad, do not move back"!!

Stop saying, "Mooo" just keep moving!

 

 
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Posted by on July 13, 2011 in Austria

 

Saxon Switzerland – Germany

Author: Amy

To put into words the thoughts that go through my head is impossible.  These first few weeks of our trip have been a great combination of city, suburb and even rural.  Today we took off to see Saxony Switzerland of Germany – who knew that it even existed.  We are doing so much daily by whim it’s a bit spooky.  While in Berlin I saw an online ad for this area of Germany.  I had looked into the train and found around 33 euro round trip for all of us as a day trip.  I thought “great deal”.  We spoke to our landlords here and they told us we could do a local bus/train/ferry combo for $15 euro for all – I LOVE a discount.  An additional highpoint was it was a National Park and there was no entrance fee.  Anyway, we packed our lunch in backpacks and after breakfast headed out.  Let me say my calves have been talking to me a bit and are saying  “are we going to be doing this every day”.  I guess the answer is yes!  We took the bus, then a train followed by a tiny ferry across the Elbe to reach our starting point.  We hiked 1.5 hours up and about the same down.  The pictures hopefully tell the story.  We ended our day at a German biergarten called Schiller Garten.  Needless to say it was an amazing day!

Kendal and Keegan on the ferry

The view up to where we are going - if you look at the top left of the mountain there is a foot bridge we will be crossing soon

On the way up

Kendal found a crack in the mountain that went straight down - this shot doesn't do the view justice

Getting close to the top

Almost as high as we can go!

Finally at the top - and yes that's a brave climber in the background

 
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Posted by on July 10, 2011 in Germany

 

Dresden, Germany 2

Author: Steve

We decided to rent bikes again and head back into the center of town. We took the route down the Elbe River, which is about a 45-minute bike ride and very beautiful straight into the center. After a short visit and a picnic lunch on the stairs in the city we headed back.  Amy and Kendal decided they wanted to head back through a park and then through the city to the apartment. Keegan and I liked the river route so we said our goodbyes and headed back to the apartment in separate directions. We arrived at the bike rental place (which was a block from our apartment) about the same time; we had a quick beverage at a Biergarten on the river and got back to our place in time to meet our landlords. They had invited us to go with them to a water park about 20 minutes away in a neighboring town of Pirna. The water park was very large and quite amazing.

NOTE: Historical portion of my blog, some may want to skip.

From early 1940 until end of June 1942, a portion of the very large mental asylum within the Sonnenstein Castle, overlooking Pirna, was converted into a euthanasia killing center: the Sonnenstein Nazi Death Institute. Specifically, in 1940 and 1941, the facility was used by the Nazis to exterminate around 15,000 people in a process that was labeled as “euthanasia”. The majority of victims suffered from psychological disorders and mental retardation, but among the 15,000 that were killed a number also included inmates from the concentration camps. The institute was set up after the beginning of WWII as part of a Reich-wide, a centrally coordinated and largely secret program called “Action T4” or the “elimination of life unworthy of life” or the killing of what the Nazis called “dead weight existences”.  The Pirna Sonnenstein Memorial Site stands today as a commemorative to these victims for what horrendous actions they faced from this war.

Pirna had been victim of a terrible flood back in 2002 and had rebounded well as far as cosmetically from that very destructive flood. However, this town, as beautiful as it is, never fully rebounded from the effects of separation of East from West back in former times. The manufacturing and industry that was so strong back in the day never really ignited again. So most the people who live here travel about 40 minutes to work in Dresden or other towns.  However, being here first hand I can tell you that this is another beautiful town in Germany, very clean, well-kept and full of history. The origins of the buildings here range from as early as the 1300’s – quite unbelievable.  Jurgen and Ursula bought the kids ice cream cones to top the evening off; they are very kind people. In fact after we got back to the apartment and the kids settled down, Amy and I went to Jurgen and Ursula’s home and they helped us plan our next days travel plans to the Saxon Switzerland National Park. In their house, that they renovated in 2000, stood a stand-alone limestone doorway frame. It was the original doorway to this home back in 1865, it was so incredible that it still stands today and all renovations were done around this true “masterpiece”!  This was another nice night with very warm people.

Kendal on the Elbe River

Castles line the river

The famous Furstenzug mural (on the right) - made out of 25,000 porcelain tiles and is over 335 feet long

Our kind landlords in Dresden at the water park

The water park was surrounded by tree's and had an indoor water slide where most of Kendal and Keegan's time was spent

Keegan taking a jump

Pirna, Germany

Pirna, Germany - the well on the left was built in 1774

Pirna, Germany

 

 
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Posted by on July 6, 2011 in Germany

 

FIFA Women’s World Cup Germany 2011

Author: Kendal

USA vs. Korea DPR

When we woke up we had a scrumptious breakfast in our apartment that consisted of crepes, cereal, strawberries, bananas, some hard rolls, and some coffee for the elders. We then got ready for the day. We either walk or take public transportation everywhere but we like renting bikes the best.  We headed out to find a place to rent bike’s for Wednesday. Then we got on the funicular (it’s sort of tram/elevator) which took us to the top of the hill we are staying on. We walked around a bit and looked at the different houses up there. We also noticed that they will be having a festival we can go to later in the week up on this hill.  When we came back down we saw some Americans that were also going to the Women’s World Cup FIFA soccer game that night. We talked with them for a while and a weird coincidence was that they used to live about an hour from our house in the US. We then left them to eat their lunch and headed right back up to the apartment. We started to make lunch, which was like dinner because we knew that we probably weren’t going to eat anything substantial at the game. We then relaxed before the game and left at around 3:30’ish. We took the tram to the game.  Once we got there, there were some games and activities in the front. Keegan and Mom got in line to do this kicking thing, where you tried to make a goal, you got three chances, hardly anybody ever got a goal. So as they waited in the 30-minute line, Dad and I went and checked out the other stuff that was there. We went back a couple of times and checked on them but they always seemed to be in the same place, when finally they were next, Mom and I switch places in line so I could get a shot at the goal, Keegan went first. He took all his shots, but there was a really good fake goalie; there was a line that led to a clicker which a guy then blocked the shots by pressing certain buttons. I knew from watching him that he looked at the player’s eyes before they kicked, so I wore my dark sunglasses and made 2 out of the 3 goals!!!!  They gave us a card and I supposedly won a really awesome personalized shirt but they have to send it by mail. We had it sent it to our house in the US and hopefully the people in our house will get it and save it for us. We then went and walked to our seats. We got awesome seats that were in the shade (bonus!), around nice people (not crazy loud), in the middle of the field (an awesome view), and we were surrounded by USA fans (they all cheered with us and even took a picture for us). It was an amazing experience and we all thoroughly enjoyed it. The US team won if you hadn’t heard (2-0) and there were some amazing goals. We then took the tram back to the apartment and we hit the hay!

P.S.  If you were wondering, we never did see those people that we met at the funicular but I’m sure they had a great time.

Taking my shot’s

The fam!

Game action

Game action

The ref needs to get involved!

 
6 Comments

Posted by on July 2, 2011 in Germany

 

I like to move it, move it!!

Author: Kendal

When we were on the train to Dresden from Berlin we were sitting around a table, on one side was Mom and Keegan and the other side was me and the bags. On the other side of the aisle and right next to me at a different table was Dad.

Round one

This one little girl/boy (I say girl/boy because none of us knew if it was a girl or a boy but we thought it was very cute) that was about 4 years-old was walking right past Dad to the bathroom and her/his dad was right behind her/him. Then my dad did this little wave at her/him with a ‘aren’t you cute’ face, and the girl/boy did it right back to him with a ‘I know I’m cute’ face. Then out of nowhere she/he reaches towards my dad, specifically at his neck and starts trying to tickle him! Her/his dad doesn’t do anything at first and kind of watches it, while my dad is making a panicked face and is having a hard time breathing. My mom and I are laughing so hard, as are most of the people who are watching (Keegan was asleep). So the kids dad then takes him/her to the bathroom and my dad is able to breathe again.

Round Two

When my dad starts to settle down and breathe again, she/he comes back and runs straight towards him with a ‘you are so much fun to play with’ smile. She/he stops right in front of my dad and smiles a huge smile, (her/his dad is still in the bathroom making his way slowly to her/him), while my dad gives him/her the ‘please don’t hurt me little girl/boy’ smile back, and then she/he lunges at him. More forcefully than the last time! My mother and I, the bad people we are, are laughing so hard that we are crying! And Dad can only lean away, stretching his neck back, and look terrified while she/he is having the time of her/his life trying to stick his/her fingers into my dad’s neck to tickle him. The father then turns up about 2-3 min later and takes him/her away.  Anyone who was watching is in tears by now.

Round Three

As we are getting our stuff together at the end of our trip, the little girl/boy is leaving and walks right past us. At that moment we were explaining what happened to Keegan and were all laughing, except Dad. She/he then comes right up to me and got really close to my face and says…”I like to move it, move it” (she/he must have seen the Madagascar movie where they play that song). I then smile and laugh a little.  Seeing that she/he got a response from me she looks at the rest of the family and says louder “I like to move it move it!”  We all laugh at how cute she/he is.  Then right before she/he walks out the door of the train she/he screams ” I LIKE TO MOVE IT, MOVE IT!!”  

Friends of the victim (my dad)

 
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Posted by on June 30, 2011 in Germany

 

Dresden, Germany

Author: Steve

Cheers to “Another” Beautiful City in Germany!!

While we were in our apartment in Berlin the person we were renting our apartment from in Dresden emailed and told us it might be difficult to get to the apartment due to a huge festival in their town. Jurgen was kind enough to offer to pick us up from the train station (which is a very huge deal for us not to have to navigate with our backpacks in tow).  He gave us a nice driving tour of the city before we headed to the apartment.  As soon as we got out of the car we noticed immediately that our apartment is on a large hillside overlooking the Elbe River (I thought as I looked up the hill that I’m sure the view is going to be nice but getting our backpacks up is going to be a bear).  Then I heard Keegan say, “Hey, why don’t we use that thing”, pointing over at what looked like some sort of lift.  Jurgen told us that was its purpose so we loaded our backpacks and up they went. They use this lift for anything heavy like luggage, groceries, furniture, etc., anything you don’t want to haul up in you hands or on your back. It was very cool.

Backpacks up the lift to our apartment

When we got up to the house we received another surprise, the 3-story apartment building we are staying in is an official landmark of Dresden – Villa Zwintscher.  It was built in 1865 and was the residence of the famous local artist Oskar Zwintscher who lived in the house at the beginning of last century.  It’s a very clean, unique and ornate building inside and out. Gardens line the outer rim of the building with everything from flowers, fruit trees, vegetable and herb gardens. Our accommodations are on the top floor (which is actually the attic) it has 1 full bathroom, 1 very spacious living/kitchen area and 3 separate bedrooms. The apartment provides all you need for your modern-day comforts but also provides you with that great European Old World charm. As we suspected the views are beautiful.

Villa Zwintscher - apartment in Dresden, Germany

View from the living area

Villa Zwintscher - This is in front foyer

As soon as we unpacked our backpacks and got situated we headed straight down to the Elbhangfest. Jurgen had mentioned it to us that it was worth going and since this was the last day we should head over as soon as we could.  It was only a block from our apartment. I wasn’t too excited about going, I don’t know why but I just didn’t think it was going to be that great and we had just spent the day travelling.  Wow, was I wrong!  This was the point I realized that this town is simply a storybook city – a place where you imagine Mr. Disney got a lot of his ideas (once I have time to get the flicker page running we’re hoping to share some nice video). The buildings here date back to the 1800’s and are all well taken care of – there is an obvious sense of pride that the people of Dresden have for their wonderful city. Kendal and I were able to check out a very young and up-and-coming band here from Germany called Café Jazz – they were awesome!!  Every direction we turned had some rich authentic European flare and comfort.  One week is not enough to really visit this town, we could all easily stay in Dresden for quite some time.  But unfortunately this city also has one of the most horrific stories ever imagined, a horrendous occurrence brought on by the evil of war and that will never, ever be forgotten…

Frauenkirche - Pictures just don't do this massive rebuild monument/church justice

Massive and beautifully restored

The old and the new

In the city of Dresden

NOTE: Historical portion of my blog, some may want to skip.

What I have read about this tragedy is nothing less than extremely tragic and unbelievable and how they have been able to rebuild their city (as I can now see it first hand) after the devastation they endured towards the end of WWII is even more unbelievable.

Three months prior to the end of WWII when the Allied Forces seemed to have reduced their risks substantially and things seemed in-hand the RAF (Royal Air Force) and the USAAF (Unites States Army Air Force) executed a controversial firestorm raid on the city of Dresden.  A firestorm was achieved by dropping incendiary bombs, filled with highly combustible chemicals such as magnesium, phosphorus or petroleum jelly (napalm) in clusters over a specific target. With the unity of all these bombs, and after the area caught fire, the air above the bombed area become extremely hot and rose rapidly. The cold air then rushed in at ground level from the outside at a power so great that people were sucked into the fire.  I can’t even fathom the terror and it didn’t just last a few hours – it went on for 2-3 days.  On February 13, 1945, 773 RAF bombers bombed Dresden and during the next two days the USAAF sent over another 527 bombers to continue the attack. Overall estimates are that these bombers dropped as many as 650,000 incendiaries, together with 8,000 lb. high-explosive bombs and hundreds of 4,000-pounders. More than 3,900 tons of high-explosive bombs and incendiary devices were dropped on the city of Dresden. And even though the estimates (25,000 to 700,000) of how many civilians were actually killed have not been agreed upon – it does seem like most agree it is no less than 35,000 civilians of which many were women and children. The even deeper discussions of this situation are that the politics are huge and still rage on today with why and how this happened, and even though this discussion could continue for many, many more pages of blogging I will resist. (Please don’t take what I write as completely accurate-I read a number of different sources and then read some more to come up with what I believe to be close to the actual occurrence. But with time and politics, who really knows…  If you’re really interested, do your own research it’s very fun).

As we travel about this remarkably beautiful city I can’t help but think of how the people of Dresden felt months before, during and after the bombings. As I walk through the center of the city I try to imagine (even though I could never) the intense emotions of terror, relief, despair, sadness and all other emotions that once filled these streets.  Then I stop and remember the survivors and feel truly inspired by the character of the innocent people (both military and civilians) from all sides of this war and all wars that simply have the strength and courage to continue…

Prost!!

 
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Posted by on June 29, 2011 in Germany